
Only a few old cafés exist in Bushwick from the time before everything went dark. One of them is Caffe Europa, at the corner of Wyckoff and Harman. The exterior recalls a late-60s/early-70s redo — the storefront is positively caked in yellow melamine. Inside, the counter had an early-80s redo, another laminate victim, this with hot pink diamonds and a stainless steel stripe on a maroon background. The place is sparse: a few tables and chairs, also from the 80s, and a table in the back with an ever-present gaggle of Italian men playing cards and drinking espresso and tiny bottles of chinotto from the refrigerator case.
Behind the counter is a set of mirror-backed shelves with even more nothing. A few glasses here and there, some random boxes of panettone, and a newspaper clipping of the Clintons that looks like it’s been taped up there since the Clinton Administration. Also behind the counter: the espresso machine.
You can of course order and pay for and down your espresso right there at the bar, but you can also sit down and the barista will bring it to you, along with two glasses of seltzer. The espresso is some of the best I have had in New York. That may seem counterintuitive considering Bushwick’s indisputable lack of sophistication in most customs European, but consider this: Caffe Europa is one of three or so places that I know of in Bushwick that has survived the decades to serve members of a tiny extant Italian population who only drink espresso. That’s quite a filter to pass through.
Warning: eat something before you have the espresso here, it’s high-octane. Each time, I’m jittery for hours afterward, and I am a daily coffee drinker.
Caffe Europa, 201 Wyckoff Avenue at Harman Street