Chimu Express’s location, away from more popular hipster stomping grounds, had me expecting the typical Bushwick neighborhood joint experience: inhospitable interiors, mediocre food, and service with a sneer. Instead, we were greeted with a geniunely attractive facade with a cloth (not painted plastic) awning over an entrance that made it feel as if we were entering someone’s house. Inside, yes, there’s some formica and one of those lighted menu boards with numbered items — in a former incarnation, the place may have been a Chinese take-out. But other features have been updated and softened — someone took time to add custom woodwork around the doors and windows, some brick walls have been exposed, and the seating is wood and actually comfortable.

You can grab a menu and sit down, and the waiter will bring you some water. “Are you familiar with Peruvian food?” I was geniunely shocked to have been asked this. “Actually, not really,” I said. He proceeded to explain a few things about the menu, and left us to decide.

My friend and I both ordered the 1/4 chicken combo with pork fried rice. I know, it seems weird, but Peru’s cuisine is influenced by the significant Chinese-descended and immigrant population. (There is also lo mein on the menu.) It came with a fresh, crunchy, julienned side salad that was actually good. The waiter brought us some aji, a spicy, mayo-based green sauce that is great poured all over the chicken and rice.

The chicken was perfect, even the white meat was moist and seasoned to the bone. We couldn’t stop commenting on how delicious it all was. The fried rice was fantastic as well. The portions are ridiculous — this place is a belly buster.

Since that first time, we have ordered delivery, and it does deliver well. We have tried several other items on the large menu. Palta rellena, half an avocado stuffed with potatoes, shrimp, and other veggies was certainly not light, but definitely good. Tamal criollo, which the menu strangely calls a “corn pie” but which is just a tamale (or pastel for Caribbeans), was also good, but nothing special. The picarones — pumpkin donuts — are pretty good, and served with a dipping sauce that suspiciously resembles the leftover juice at the bottom of a flan dish. (That means it’s good.) I took Luis (my better half) there the other night, and he liked the lomo saltado, steak and sautéed onions over white rice.

Two people can pig out here for $20. They do have beer, house wine, and even sangría, but though the place is fine to sit down and eat in, something about watching a WWF match or the moronic local news has me not in the mood for a glass of wine.

The verdict: this place is a culinary asset in the neighborhood. Everything is consistently good, the service is pleasant and competent, the price is right, and the atmosphere is good enough. Delivery is prompt. Make your way down to the lovely corner of Stanhope and Irving and pay the Chimu guys a visit.

Chimu Express, 180 Irving (entrance on Stanhope) | 718-443-0787
12pm-11pm | 7 days (apparently they are not always open every day for walk-in — call before heading out)

check out other reviews and locations on the Bushwick Business Map