Ridgewood Thai restaurant Thai Village opened three weeks ago at Woodward near Catalpa. — Photos by Scarlett Lindeman

In the land of Latin American steam tables and corner Chinese, the promise of a splash of fish sauce or one torn Thai basil leaf is enough to excite a weary palate. Our neighbors to the north, with more foliage and cleaner stoops, can rejoice — Ridgewood has its very own Thai restaurant.

The three-week-old Thai Village has Ridgewood residents yelping in excitement. Owners Renny and Bambang, from Jackson Heights by way of Malaysia surveyed the restaurant scene of the neighborhood and found a niche to fill with massaman curry and tom ka coconut soup. He used to cook at Sea, in Williamsburg, and she enlisted friends and cousins to help out. The low-lit dining room is tastefully covered in tapestries and hung with mirrors and lanterns.

 
Thai Village
881 Woodward Ave. (near Catalpa)
Mon-Sun, 12-11pm
718-894-4404
Food: $4-14
 
Green papaya salad, crunchy and sweet. Click to see more.

There is a large roster of Thai-inspired salads, noodles dishes, fried rice, and curries.  The attentive wait staff delivers crispy duck salads on romaine lettuce and pineapple fried rice with cashews and curry powder, with thick-sweet Thai iced teas to wash it down. There are cucumber salads, reasonable prices, and brown rice is available.

On last visit, a salad of julienned green papaya, carrot, green bean, tomato and crushed peanut was topped with plump shrimp. It was refreshing though with so many crunchy nuts and sweet dressing, it was almost like eating a PB&J — still tasty but not in salad territory.  Pad Thai suffered from the same problem, a sugary sauce drenching rice noodles, chicken, and green onions, flecked with egg.

Many dishes yearn for more herbs, greater chile heat, and a lighter hand with the sugar but still offer a well-needed local Southeast Asian fix; because a passable pad prik is a beacon for a neighborhood with little variety.