Sushi Chef Yoshi Wong at Tomo Japanese Fusion. — Photos by Scarlett Lindeman

The sound most people make, after you tell them there is a new sushi restaurant in Bushwick, is a deflating “Eeeeeeeeeeeeh” akin to letting the air out of a balloon. It’s not difficult to understand the apprehension to consume raw fish on the industrial truck route that is Flushing Avenue, especially when the storefront guides diners in with a non-ironic moving lighted arrow. Judging from a chattering dining room on a recent mid-week night, however, the “Japanese Fusion” of Tomo is inspiring many to take a chance.

	Tomo Japanese Fusion 1077 Flushing Avenue Mon-Thurs 11am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11am-11pm 718-456-3695 Free Delivery, Min. $10
	Tomo’s busy storefront. Click to see more.

The dining area is one long, leather banquette faced with masculine chairs, softened by a pink light that cascades over a curved wall made of various-sized slices of 1×6 wood planks — modern, but well-done and comfortable. After a month, the menus still smell like plastic and the Ozeki Sake dispenser is ready to be broken in. Tomo just acquired its liquor license — wine, beer, and sake is now available.

The sashimi and sushi are surprisingly fresh. The portions are generous — glistening slabs of fish draped over rice like king-sized comforters on full-sized beds. Yellowtail, squid, and salmon were supple; only the tuna was lean and lackluster. The simple fish preparations are best; the more elaborate rolls, heavy with crispy fried flakes, gloppy mayo, sweet eel sauce, and avocado taste stonerific.

The menu is large, rooted in raw Japanese fare with more ambitious entrees like rack of lamb with plum wine sauce and crispy red snapper. Chef Yoshi Wong, who designs and executes the menu, trained at a sushi apprenticeship in Tokyo for three years. One of the current owners (there are three) was a regular customer at his sushi counter in Queens before he cherry-picked him for Tomo. Mr. Wong, like the enthusiastic waitresses, is talkative and friendly, slicing flesh and sending out complimentary plates of vinegared cucumber topped with spicy tuna tartare.

Some of the best offerings are in the starter section of the menu. A sprightly seaweed salad was a heap of marine greens, lubed with sesame oil and chile ($4). Also nice was a sauté of assorted mushrooms — shitake, enoki, and cremini in a garlic-scented buttery pile ($4). The prices are a couple of dollars cheaper than in Williamsburg or Manhattan; basic rolls are 4 dollars, larger ones 8 or 9, and lunch specials, complete with miso soup and salad, are 8.

Mr. Wong was initially concerned about the neighborhood: “This area…” he began, trailing off and shaking his head, laughing. Nevertheless, he seems optimistic that the crowd will come; there have been a lot of takeout orders and the neighborhood kids have started to trickle in at night. “Bring your boyfriend, your family, your friends. We need more friends.” With warm sake, hot tea, and cool fish, he might just make a few.

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