Snack Town has slicked Broadway for decades. — Photos by Scarlett Lindeman

Some restaurants aim to delight, others to impress, and some to satiate with novel culinary pleasures. Snack Town is not one of those restaurants. A dingy diner on Broadway below the rumbling elevated, Snack Town is a place to fill the gut before a long day at work or sturdy a wobbly walk of shame back to your own neighborhood.

 
Blue stools. Click for more.

This aim is nothing to scoff at. Sometimes a slick of oil and carbs to pad the insides is necessary to take on the day. This is why Snack Town’s main business is breakfast. Greek omelets, toast in five different ways, and coffee hit the tables like clockwork. It is an old diner, all surfaces covered with mottled blue formica, Aunt Jemima syrup bottles stuck to every table. Ten little swivel stools sit below the counter and an old blue metal cash register.

Emilio, in a grey Snack Town button-up that looks like mechanic’s wear, has been manning the griddle for twenty years. He told me the current owner has operated Snack Town for three or four decades, and before that, there were two previous owners. “So how long has this place been around?” I ask. Laughing, he says, “Maybe, 100 years.”

Even if Snack Town hasn’t hit it’s centennial, it feels worn enough. It’s like an old school New York joint where bagels cost a nickel and Ratso Rizzo would linger for hours over an endlessly refilled cup of coffee. Times have changed. Coffee refills and condiments like lettuce and pickles are not included. Soup is made by opening a can and the pie comes wrapped in cellophane.

Satisfaction can be found. You can get a can of sardines, still in the container, served with crackers. The standard egg plate: eggs, bacon, home fries, and toast is only $4.00. And French fries are exactly what you want them to be — extra crispy with creamy insides, inedible after they lose their oily glow.

Snack Town
1071 Broadway | 718-453-0903
Mon-Sun, 7am-6pm
5-block delivery, $8 minimum