Alex Seidi manning the grill at Pita Palace on Bushwick Avenue

The turquoise-and-pink-striped polo shirt and matching Yankee cap may be my favorite. Or maybe it’s the brown-and-lime-green combo. Whatever shade, you’ll notice Alex Seidi’s style when you enter Bushwick’s new Pita Palace. Alex Seidi co-owns the Palace and the E-Z Pass convenience store, two stores down, with his elder brother, Abdo. The brothers are from Yemen but grew up and went to school in Brooklyn. Feeling the need for Middle Eastern cuisine in the neighborhood they scoped out places to buy.

 
The chicken platter was a hit. Click for more.

In late January, they converted a Loco Burrito, that hub of brown rice and bastardized California burritos, into a kebab and falafel gem. The brothers wanted to keep the Mexican food side in service — “it was making money, so why destroy it?” — and funneled $40,000 into building a shiny new side kitchen. They hired an Israeli chef to recreate the flavors of their childhood — that means lemony stuffed grape leaves, the cracked wheat salad mojadara, roasted eggplant, and a smooth and nutty hummus, topped with a glug of French olive oil and paprika.

Abdo, whose verbal quips are as sharp as his brother’s garb, credits Alex for the idea behind the restaurant. He likes manning the E-Z Pass counter, doling out Parliaments and energy drinks to neighborhood residents while Alex is down the street, commanding the kitchen.

On last visit to the Palace, my boyfriend and I opted for the meat platters: a heap of curried rice, salad with beets, pickled cabbage and olives, and meat sliced from the shawarma spit. The lamb was dense with spice, though a bit dry, but the chicken was the favorite. It was juicy dark meat, heady with cinnamon, cloves, cumin, and cardamom. Pita Palace’s chef keeps his craft secret. He won’t release his recipes to anyone, not even the owners. “The other day we ran out of hummus,” says Alex, “so I made some and I thought it tasted pretty good, but then the chef came back and saw that I made it on my own and got so mad! He almost quit. He wants it made the correct way.”

Alex and Abdo have plans for expanding the menu. The deli meats for sandwiches are in and they are starting breakfast service this week. The expansive menu keeps everyone happy but it is the Middle Eastern dishes that shine. Though halal tradition dictates abstaining from alcohol, the brothers don’t mind if you BYOB. In fact, they suggest it — grab a 40oz. from E-Z Pass and come on down.

Bushwick Pita Palace
243 Bushwick Avenue | 718-456-9114
Food: $2.75 to $10.95
Delivery: Yes, Free