Sparkling clean Hong Kong Express on Wyckoff Avenue. — Photos by Devon Brown

Since I moved to Bushwick, I have been on a seemingly endless search for decent Chinese food in the neighborhood. All I wanted was a place with clean floors, a clean kitchen, and a good meal that I didn’t have to order through bulletproof glass. At long last, I’ve found it: Hong Kong Express on Wyckoff Avenue, right across from the Halsey L stop.

	Decent food at Hong Kong Express. Click for more.

I was trolling the neighborhood for interesting places to eat when their neat red awning caught my attention. Unlike like the competition, the owners of Hong Kong put some thought into decorating. There were pictures of koi fish on the beige walls, the tables had vintagy Chinese script and flowers under thick varnish, and the padded chairs matched the mahogany-colored wood paneling.

The menus are displayed on mini flat screen TVs mounted over the register. There is also a larger television to entertain customers waiting for take out, which is what I decided to do because most tables got a cold blast of air when people entered the restaurant.

The kitchen was completely open, as if to invite the waiting customers to inspect the gleaming equipment. Three frenzied cooks bolted back and forth — a sign of high order volume. In fact, as I waited for my food, a dozen other people did the same.

After the ambiance and cleanliness pluses, I was praying for the food to be good, too. The beef and broccoli had a sweet brown sauce that tasted distinctly of anise, the meat was tender, the broccoli had a nice crunch, and the accompanying white rice was clearly fresh from the cooker. The vegetable spring roll was average, but not greasy. The wonton soup broth was a little bland, but the actual dumpling had a pleasant hint of ginger.

Satisfied with my meal, I went back to Hong Kong Express to speak with Vincent, one of the owners, and find out why his restaurant was so different.

“We are the first of a new generation of Chinese restaurants,” he said. “We wanted to see if we could offer something new to the area; if we followed the old trends we wouldn’t succeed. We charge about the same but use fresher, better ingredients.”

He owns the restaurant with his sister and brother in-law, who can all work the line if necessary, but Vincent prefers to be up front where he can chat with the customers. “The problem with many Chinese restaurants is a lack of communication,” he said. “The cooks can’t understand what the customers want.” Born in Hong Kong and raised in Brooklyn, he uses his native command of English to make the clientele feel comfortable.

Hong Kong Express is built on Vincent’s belief that “America is the best place for dreams if you’re willing to work.” The food isn’t going to make the Michelin Guide, but it’s the best in the area and it’s made by people who care about their craft.

Hong Kong Express
989 Wyckoff Ave | 718-456-1858
Hours: Mon-Sat: 11:00am-10:30pm, Sun: 12-10:30pm
Delivery: Yes