Chimu Express’s location, away from more popular hipster stomping grounds, had me expecting the typical Bushwick neighborhood joint experience: inhospitable interiors, mediocre food, and service with a sneer. Instead, we were greeted with a geniunely attractive facade with a cloth (not painted plastic) awning over an entrance that made it feel as if we were entering someone’s house. Inside, yes, there’s some formica and one of those lighted menu boards with numbered items — in a former incarnation, the place may have been a Chinese take-out. But other features have been updated and softened — someone took time to add custom woodwork around the doors and windows, some brick walls have been exposed, and the seating is wood and actually comfortable.
You can grab a menu and sit down, and the waiter will bring you some water. “Are you familiar with Peruvian food?” I was geniunely shocked to have been asked this. “Actually, not really,” I said. He proceeded to explain a few things about the menu, and left us to decide.
My friend and I both ordered the 1/4 chicken combo with pork fried rice. I know, it seems weird, but Peru’s cuisine is influenced by the significant Chinese-descended and immigrant population. (There is also lo mein on the menu.) It came with a fresh, crunchy, julienned side salad that was actually good. The waiter brought us some aji, a spicy, mayo-based green sauce that is great poured all over the chicken and rice.
The chicken was perfect, even the white meat was moist and seasoned to the bone. We couldn’t stop commenting on how delicious it all was. The fried rice was fantastic as well. The portions are ridiculous — this place is a belly buster.
Since that first time, we have ordered delivery, and it does deliver well. We have tried several other items on the large menu. Palta rellena, half an avocado stuffed with potatoes, shrimp, and other veggies was certainly not light, but definitely good. Tamal criollo, which the menu strangely calls a “corn pie” but which is just a tamale (or pastel for Caribbeans), was also good, but nothing special. The picarones — pumpkin donuts — are pretty good, and served with a dipping sauce that suspiciously resembles the leftover juice at the bottom of a flan dish. (That means it’s good.) I took Luis (my better half) there the other night, and he liked the lomo saltado, steak and sautéed onions over white rice.
Two people can pig out here for $20. They do have beer, house wine, and even sangría, but though the place is fine to sit down and eat in, something about watching a WWF match or the moronic local news has me not in the mood for a glass of wine.
The verdict: this place is a culinary asset in the neighborhood. Everything is consistently good, the service is pleasant and competent, the price is right, and the atmosphere is good enough. Delivery is prompt. Make your way down to the lovely corner of Stanhope and Irving and pay the Chimu guys a visit.
Chimu Express, 180 Irving (entrance on Stanhope) | 718-443-0787
12pm-11pm | 7 days (apparently they are not always open every day for walk-in — call before heading out)
check out other reviews and locations on the Bushwick Business Map
Nick April 8th, 2008 at 3:56 pm
Will definitely try it out. Chicken and salad look good. Beginning to salivate. Thanks for the info.
Brian April 8th, 2008 at 3:59 pm
a good pig out for $20 is definately worth checking out, especially given the fact that i too am not familiar with peru-vian food. maybe soon!
kanoa April 8th, 2008 at 5:18 pm
agreed, always been a fan of the williamsburg Chimu and i was glad they chose to expand to Bushwick. the guy who always seems to be running the place is really nice and very friendly. the fried rice is something to be experienced, and they probably have my favorite roast chicken in the city right now, and that spicy green sauce is fantastic. seriously, if you’ve never been, you need to go check it out.
pixie April 8th, 2008 at 7:18 pm
It is a great addition the the neighborhood. They’re so friendly and wonderful. I hope they have great success
Armstrong April 9th, 2008 at 1:15 pm
told ya! yes, it is some of the best food I’ve had in Bushwick.
Mjay April 9th, 2008 at 11:54 pm
so where is this place?
daveffreep April 10th, 2008 at 9:27 am
This place is on Stanhope, just off Irving, right behind the Rodriguez deli. There’s a black awning out front. This restaurant used to be La Cocal, with a scary frong as its mascot.
We had dinner there last night. The chicken is excellent as are the pork fried rice and salad. Plenty of food. Two people could easily split one order of 1/2 chicken and pfr and salad.
The waiter was great. They don’t have their liquor license yet, so we brought in our own (I had to run home and get beer out of the fridge, it was so close to home!), and shared with the waiter.
My only concern is that they get enough business to stay open. There were two guys eating there when we got there and us and a handful of deliveries and pick-ups.
Maybe we need to have a board bum rush here!
troutmanst April 10th, 2008 at 1:26 pm
I definitely want to check this out. Does anyone know how late they stay open?
Jeremy April 10th, 2008 at 6:11 pm
Guys, guys, take a deep breath, calm down. Look at the bottom of the post. You will find, in bold, all of the following: the location, the phone number, the hours of operation, and how many days a week they are open. Enjoy.
troutmanst April 10th, 2008 at 6:27 pm
Wow. I actually looked at the bottom of the post to see if the hours were included. I guess bold isn’t enough for me. Perhaps a Drudge-like siren? Anyway. Thanks for the information.
Ingo Hart April 24th, 2008 at 11:49 pm
I finally went last week. This place is great! I had the 1/2 chicken with friend rice. My mom is actually Japanese-Peruvian so I was surprised to see the Chinese thing even mentioned.