Since Roberta’s opened last month, I have been there three times. Each time, I took various members of my Bushwick crew, several bottles of wine in hand, and ate and drank merrily and loudly for hours. It’s impossible to go before 9 — people here just tend to eat far too early, and the place is too crowded to get a seat. This suits my group of friends fine, most of them being some flavor of Floridian or Latin American or both, and think eating dinner at 7pm is barbaric.

The staff is like nothing I have experienced. Whereas in our other two neighborhood hipster-friendly eating establishments the staff doesn’t know what’s on the menu, has a bad attitude, and forgets your orders too often to justify their prices, the staff at Roberta’s is the polar opposite. Our favorite waitress — Mary — is genuinely friendly, attentive, and knows everything about the product. One time after we had sampled every one of their standard pizzas, we asked if she thought the chef had suggestions. She asked, he did, and we devoured the tuna belly pizza.

The favorite in my group seems to be the guanciale and egg pizza — guanciale, traditionally used in carbonara, is cured pork jowl, and is sliced thinly and scattered atop the pizza. Before going into the oven, an egg is cracked in the center. If done right, the pizza emerges cooked but with the yolk still a little soft.

I personally go for the margherita with double anchovies. They use what seems to be boquerones, which are anchovies marinated in vinegar — a Spanish snack you’ll find at any tapas joint. It’s bright and tangy and tastes extra good between gulps of wine.

Yes, as many have noted in these pages, the prices are a bit high, but the bright side is that this should encourage other entrepreneurs to open restaurants in Bushwick. At least at Roberta’s you get high-quality ingredients. And considering that right now (and I assume for several more months, considering how this city works) it’s BYOB, you can guzzle all the liquor you want for liquor store prices.

It’s cash only, so don’t forget the green. They’re open from noon to midnight on weekdays, and noon to 2am on weekends. If you’re a large party, they might even save you a table.

Roberta’s, 261 Moore Street off Bogart | 718-417-1118