Wondering what all those roots on the table at the bodega are? I’ll show you over the next few weeks. We’re going to start with the simplest and my favorite: yuca.

It’s the long, brown, sometimes waxy root that can’t seem to be contained in a produce bin. None of this should matter, because unless you like to torture yourself, you will buy frozen bags of yuca, sometimes called “cassava” on the package — which I guess is the English word? If your bodega doesn’t have it frozen, you should not shop there. If you insist on doing it like the frickin Indians, buy a root with no blemishes on it whatsoever — it should be totally firm all over. Peel it with a sharp paring knife until it’s all white. You’ll still probably have to throw away 1/4-1/3 of the yuca when you invariably find mold in it. Chop what remains into big hunks like in the photo below. Again, I cannot stress how dumb it is to buy it fresh when Goya has done all the processing for you and froze it and will sell it to you for cheaper than fresh.

If it’s fresh, you will have to boil it in salted water with a few smashed garlic cloves for about 10-15 minutes or until totally tender to the center. If frozen, give it about 25-35 — you do not want undercooked yuca. To test for doneness, pull a large piece out and cut it open. If it is anything but completely translucent looking, if any small bit of white remains, put it back in the water. The white parts are chalky, and no amount of sauce will make it taste like anything but dirt.

While it cooks, heat about a cup of olive oil in a pan until it’s almost smoking. In a ramekin or some other heatproof bowl, have about a full head of minced garlic (the Associated on Knickerbocker sells 5 heads for a buck!) and sprinkle with a little salt. When the oil is screaming hot, pour it over the garlic — it should bubble and steam, cooking the garlic and infusing the oil. Just let it sit until the yuca is done. That’s your mojo. Some people like to add a little citrus juice. Feel free, but then you have to mix it like a vinaigrette and that’s a pain.

When the yuca is done, pull the pieces out of the water and place on a cutting board. There is a little fibrous spine that runs through the center that you will have to pull out; it will peel away easily. Arrange whatever portion you like on your plate and then spoon generous amounts of the mojo. At that point I usually hit it with a lot of black pepper and, being a salt fiend, more salt.

From this point you can also make fried yuca — simply cut the boiled yuca into thick batons and drop into hot oil (pan-frying won’t work, they will stick and then fall apart). Fish them out when they’re golden, and dip into the mojo and eat like french fries.

There are many other uses for yuca that you can look up. Now you know the basics of preparation, the rest is just adding yuca to other stuff.

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