The owners of Brooklyn’s Natural are nothing if not enterprising. The Bogart Street market has a good selection of organic food both packaged and fresh, numerous imported items, a fantastic offering of beers, and, of course, more soy products than you ever knew existed. They make fresh sandwiches and wraps in house. Smoke Nat Shermans? They have them, too.

Sorry, meat-eaters, your choices are pretty much limited to salami and chicken breast. You’ll realize how vegetarians feel trying to shop in most other markets.

The consensus among the loft set is that Brooklyn’s Natural is a ripoff, and for a while I agreed. But when I started boycotting my corner bodega due to its general repulsiveness and walking the 10 minutes to BN, I realized upon buying a spread of items that the prices are fine for what you get — convenience and quality in a neighborhood not known for it. Sure, I can get handmade pasta in Little Italy for 30% less. Yeah, the Häagen-Dazs is a buck more than it “should” be. But you’re paying to have that stuff on your doorstep in a neighborhood not exactly calling out for the likes of Dean and DeLuca.

So, buck up, North Bushwickers — until we can get some competition in here, Brooklyn’s Natural is what we have. And really, it’s way better than not having it.

49 Bogart Street