It’s fast approaching the time when the piragua men (piragüeros, if you wanna be fancy) will be on every corner in Bushwick, so here’s a primer for the uninitiated. A piragua is, in short, a Puerto Rican sno cone. A man pushes around a big cart with a huge block of ice on it, from which he scrapes a plastic cup-full of ice shavings. (I have been known to turn up my nose at carts with electric grinders: part of the fun is in the process.) Then on either side of the ice block are several different flavors of syrup — I avoid flavors such as “blue flavor” and head for the naturals: parcha (passionfruit), or tamarindo. He pours your chosen flavor all over the ice, jams a little red straw in it, and hands you the whole sloshing mess. One dollar, please.

Get one, sit on a curb or your stoop, and chomp and slurp your way to the bottom of the cup. Don’t go wash up right away — sticky hands means you’ve had a good time.


My half-eaten piragua de tamarindo.